Text: Ben Davis (The White Paper)
Translation: Yuto Miyamoto
Video: Masaki Miyamoto
Special Thanks: 滋賀麻工業
The Kotō region, located on the eastern shore of Lake Biwa in Shiga Prefecture, has a history of textile industry dating back to the Muromachi period. The clean water flowing from the Suzuka Mountains and the hot, humid inland climate provide an ideal environment for dyeing and weaving. When Omi merchants brought in raw materials such as hemp and ramie, weaving began during the off-season for agriculture. High-quality textiles, including "Ōmi Jōfu," one of Japan's three major types of fine linen, were transported inland via Lake Biwa's waterways and the Nakasendō road, leading to the development of this region as a center for linen weaving.
Omi Jofu is still handwoven today, and the textile industry in the Kotō region has developed by industrializing these traditional manufacturing techniques. Shiga Asa Kogyo, one of the few factories still in operation, has been producing high-quality natural material products for clothing, bedding, and interiors. With traditional techniques accumulated over more than 80 years and a willingness to adapt to changing times, Shiga Asa became the ideal partner to create Futo's new products together.
The project was sparked by the waffle fabric produced by Shiga hemp. In order to develop a waffle fabric that had the optimal balance of comfort and functionality, Sakata of KINTO's planning and development team conducted numerous experiments with Shiga hemp. Feeling that 100% hemp waffle fabric was a little too delicate for everyday use without hesitation, he considered a fabric using cotton for the warp and linen for the weft. Through repeated prototyping, testing, and adjustments, the thickness of the yarn was gradually increased, and an original fabric with a fluffy texture was born. "We weren't aiming to pursue the comfort of a fluffy pile towel. We aimed for a towel that is a little thin, light, and easy to handle, that can be used to quickly wipe and dry in everyday life," says Sakata.
By using the same waffle fabric for towels in three different sizes, we've made it possible to choose according to the occasion, while also minimizing the amount of leftover fabric generated during the production process. We've also created a multi-purpose cloth that can be used as a lap blanket or carried in a dedicated drawstring bag for picnics. Because these are simple items like towels and cloths, the appearance and texture of the material are the main focus of the finished product. The natural colors are left undyed to preserve their natural hue, while the gray linen is dyed black using the "hank dyeing" method. This dyeing method involves immersing the yarn in a loop-shaped bundle of threads, allowing the dye to penetrate while maintaining a natural texture—you'll be able to feel that texture when you touch the finished towels.
「小さいワッフルの四角一つひとつに、みっちりと糸が詰まっています。また表はリネンの糸が、裏はオーガニックコットンの綿が多く出る構造になっていることで、表はさらっと吸水性が高く、裏はふかっと柔らかいタオルになりました」と坂田は言います。「その違いが出るのも、今回オリジナルでつくった生地ならではです」