Shiga, Japan — Cotton Linen Waffle Shiga – Cotton linen waffle

This fabric is woven using organic cotton for the warp and linen for the weft. By varying the thickness of the yarns, the structure allows more linen to appear on the surface and more organic cotton on the reverse. The front feels crisp and smooth with excellent absorbency, while the back is pleasantly soft.

Waffle fabric is defined by its grid-like texture. In Futo's fabric, each square is constructed from eight threads and woven with high density. The raised structure increases surface area, allowing it to absorb moisture efficiently while creating channels for air to pass through, enhancing breathability and quick drying.

The grey linen yarn is dyed in skeins, wound loosely in bundles. The white and natural colorways are also starched in the same way. By treating the yarns in a relaxed state, the natural character of the linen is preserved, carrying through into the softness of the finished fabric.

The Koto region, on the eastern side of Lake Biwa, is known as the birthplace of Omi-jofu. In the Edo period, hemp and linen cultivated in northern Kanto were transported along the Nakasendo route to be woven here, then sold in Kyoto. Through this network established by Omi merchants, linen weaving developed in the region. Today, the area holds two living legacies: Omi-jofu as a traditional craft, and Omi linen as a living industry.

Historically, each stage of production—from yarn preparation to weaving and finishing—was carried out by small specialist workshops in the surrounding area. As the number of artisans declined, processes such as winding, warping, weaving, and fabric inspection came to be consolidated within a single factory. The introduction of rapier looms* has supported a more sustainable production system.
*Rapier loom: a weaving machine in which two rapier carriers pass the weft yarn across the loom at high speed.

As domestic linen production has declined with the rise of overseas manufacturing, the factory behind Futo’s fabric has remained committed to working with linen. With deep knowledge of the material and a focus on preserving its techniques for the future, this original waffle fabric for Futo is made possible.